DAY166: Flores, from Ende to Moni, Moni village, Murundao waterfall, Woloara village

8am: The hotel doesn't have an actual shower so I had to wash myself the old fashioned way: take a bucket and throw the water at me, the water that you use to 'flush' the toilets haha. It's not too bad. Backpacking life until the end!

9am: Jumped on an Ojek (motorbike taxi) who drove me to the bus terminal. Going to Moni is not more than 30.000Rps, although they will try to sell it to you for 50.000Rps. Just be firm during the negotiation. The car is all battered, I don't even have a handle to open my door. But who cares?

10.15am: Already in Moni, it was a lot faster than I expected. The road was absolutely lovely through the mountains and a river running in the valley. Plus it's the TransFlores so it's in perfect condition.

11am: Moni is surprisingly a very small village. Surprisingly because it's the entry point to the most famous attraction in Flores: the Kelimutu volcano and its three crater lakes. It's highly recommended to do it at sunrise, that's why I intend to do it tomorrow.

12pm: My host advised me not to rent a scooter today because they don't do it for half day and told me everything else was accessible by foot. My first stop is at Murundao waterfall. The way to get there is paved, only 5 minutes from the main road, so no need to wear trekking shoes or even sneakers. No leeches either. It's a relaxing place, the waterfall is about 15 meters high and has a powerful water flow.

1.30pm: A nice but steep trail took me in less than an hour from the waterfall to a village called Woloara. There is a good viewpoint from which you can see as far as the ocean and over the valley.

3pm: Decided to go down the main road which is a longer walk. I'm glad I did! Went to meet the villagers and admired the beautiful rice fields.

6pm: I'm a bit pissed off being asked the same question a million times a day 'where are you going?' Why do you care?! I'm also upset because they don't want to rent the scooters for half a day but only a full day here. You actually don't need more than a few hours as the only attraction here is the Kelimutu. And they all agreed on the price. It's exactly the same price as if you hire an Ojek up and down, which makes no sense! It might be a small cute village, they didn't forget how to do business. Feels like Moni rhymes with money...

9pm: To be fair, the hotel justified the price of the scooter nicely - even if I still disagree with the explanation - and the host invited me over for dinner. Met Alex and Briana for this occasion, a British couple who's traveled a lot already. They tried to go to Kelimutu by themselves yesterday but their tyre burst and they had to head back. I'm not the only unlucky one with the scooters then, it's comforting! So they'll try the Kelimutu again tomorrow, meaning they'll have to wake up before 4am two nights in a row. How brave!