DAY167: Flores, Moni, Kelimutu volcano, 3 color lakes, from Moni to Maumere

4am: My plan today is to go watch the sunrise at the top of Kelimutu volcano. Didn't sleep much. Heard big thunderstorms at 2am, I hope it's not going to rain in the morning when the mornings are usually clear here. But who knows? I haven't been very lucky with sunrises so far. Remember Adam's Peak (Sri Lanka) or Bagan (Myanmar)? But for now I can see the stars which is a good start.

5am: The biggest part of the ascent of the Kelimutu you can do it with a bike or a car. If you consider doing it by yourself as I did, keep in mind that there are potholes all along the way. The road is perfect most of the time so you tend to get distracted and that's when you get caught!

6.30am: The trail from the parking lot to the craters couldn't be easier. It's all paved with step like any self-respecting Asian tourist attraction. Better have a flashlight anyway.

Met Alex and Briana and the top. We didn't see any sunrise because of the clouds and it got only worse and worse. We couldn't see any of the three lakes. Fortunately now it's clearing up. The three lakes have different colors: the first one is emerald green (called Red Lake because it turns red when the oxygen and sulfur reach a certain level), the second one is milky blue (almost white - called Blue Lake) and the last one is dark green (almost black - called Green Lake). It is believed that the spirits of deceased people return to Kelimutu and stay forever. Bad people's spirits are stuck in the green lake (supposedly red sometimes), the good ones are shared in the other two lakes depending on their age - elderly in the black, young in the milky blue.

7.30am: The weather conditions are definitely not optimal this morning but I'll wait a bit longer, it changes in a heartbeat even though the cloud layer looks quite thick.

9.30am: Finally I got a few decent pictures of the lakes. Now that it's gotten clearer, I can appreciate it at its full potential and I must say I'm quite astonished. Those crater lakes are fascinating. I just think it's overpriced for a natural site: 150.000 entrance fee + 100.000 for the ride... This is what we paid for a whole day on the boat in Riung! I understand Quiterie when she says that Wawomuda has a better value for money.

One other thing: there are monkeys on the site, they also take advantage of tourists, they are pretty agressive! Keep your stuff in your bag, don't defy them and throw stones at them if you need to defend yourself. Although I also felt like a monkey in a zoo as many many people want pictures with me - so please don't throw me anything. I still have troubles getting the purpose of it.

12pm: The way down was easier and faster in the daylight and I'm glad I had my own scooter (and not an Ojek) to enjoy the view, go my own pace and stop whenever I wanted. Then I had breakfast with Alex and Briana before I drove them to the junction where they were to take their bus to Ende.

2.45pm: Spoke to Ida, a young German girl, while I was waiting for my bus to Maumere. She is so curious, we had a good connexion. I like positive people like her.

3pm: The bus started while a guy was still arranging the luggage on top of it. Asian free style!

6pm: The bus took me to the city and not further away as initially planned. I need to find a plan B to stay in Maumere tonight. Plus the ATM I found wouldn't work. Last but not least, it's getting dark in a city I have no knowledge about. But I have to stay positive!

6.30pm: Just found the cheapest hotel you can find but also the most basic. Looks like a short-time hotel. Can't be too demanding right now, can I? That'll buy me some time to find a more comfortable option for tomorrow.

8pm: Couldn't decide where to eat and ended up in one of those dodgy places where the food sits there you don't know for how long... but I had the best avocado juice ever! Things always come around.